FAQs

Stubborn dirt, especially wax residue, reduces the adhesive strength. Use the hybrid cleaning spray with a standard household sponge to remove wax residue or dirt.

You can either ask your sports retailer to renew the adhesive layer or you can renew it yourself. There are two options for this: glue in a tube or so-called transfer tape for ironing on.

One tube of glue is enough to recoat a pair. First, the old glue must be removed. Cover the glue side with a cotton fabric and iron over it with medium heat (wool setting). This softens the glue and the cotton fabric absorbs the glue. The soft glue remaining on the skin can be removed with a spatula.

Tube glue: Apply the new glue evenly, not too thin, using a brush, a spatula or a sturdy piece of cardboard. Allow the glue to dry at room temperature for about 10 hours and only then apply the protective film for storing the skins. Store the skins in a UV-protected bag.

Glue on transfer tape: Carefully apply the transfer tape to the cleaned back of the skin and press it gently. Transfer the glue with light pressure and slow movements using an iron or wax iron in the upper temperature range (150 °C - 160 °C). If dark spots form on the film, reduce the temperature slightly. The skins are ready for use again after a short cooling time.

The excess glue can be cut off along the edge of the fur after it has cooled off.

When climbing, make sure to glide as perfectly as possible and not lift the ski, but rather drag it along the snow. This reduces the risk of snow build-up and iceing.

Snow build-up is a particular issue when changing from wet to dry snow. New skins have a hydrophobic treatment to prevent water absorption. This treatment wears off during use and the skins must be treated with impregnating spray or block wax. This also improves the gliding properties. Depending on the conditions, you can treat your skins every 3-4 tours. Various products are available from specialist retailers for this purpose:

Impregnating spray, 300 ml, without propellant

Impregnating wax, 40g block in a practical plastic box, ideal for taking on tour. Apply in the direction of the plush from the tip to the end.

Despite minor damage to the hybrid adhesive layer, the skins are still fully functional as long as the adhesive still feels sticky. If this is not the case, clean the adhesive layer.

Check the shape of the skins. In the middle third, only the steel edges should be exposed.

Check the condition of the skins. Especially if you use them mainly on slopes or hard snow, mohair skins have a lifespan of 60-80 tours and then need to be replaced. Mix skins are slightly more abrasion resistant.

When traversing, try not to stand on the edge only but use as much skin surface as possible.

Choose a less steep skin-track

Be sure to use the trim tool provided when cutting skins. Fringes usually form after the first few turns of cut skins and tear off after several uses. The fringes can also be cut off with sharp scissors. Don't worry, the skins won't fall apart.

Varioclips are available as accessories from specialist retailers.

The red sliders hold the top and bottom parts together. Make sure that the sliders are fully engaged.

If the top and bottom do not close properly, the fur may have slipped in the varioclip or not been cut precisely. Open the varioclip and check whether the fur is sitting neatly in the recess. If necessary, trim it a little with good scissors and make sure that the 3 needles that pierce the fur are not bent.

contour offers two different versions of the tail clip: For normal to thin skis, the “slim” tail clip is the first choice. The second version clamps neatly onto thicker tails.